Thursday, 16 June 2016

Éléonore pant by Jalie and One pattern many looks PANTS. With Kathy Ruddy.

I'm sure all of you home seamstresses out there know this Jalie pattern was voted the best of 2015 on Pattern review. With good reason!!! They are pull on - no zipper application, with jeans styling.Quick and easy,and super comfy. However, ( there's always a however!) With any garment you have to have a great fit, after making my first two pairs I had just an ok fit. I knew I wanted to get better at customizing them to my fit and style, and for the last few years I have been diligently working to improve my bottoms and make better pants. I can now make very nice pants BUT I still needed better fit techniques. Enter Craftsy class, One pattern many looks PANTS. With Kathy Ruddy.
"Create a versatile block pattern to ensure perfect-fitting pants across an array of style choices. Kathy Ruddy shows you how!

Three styles of waist finish ... three kinds of pockets ... three different leg styles. Kathy Ruddy gives you all these options and more, using a single pants pattern that you'll adjust to fit in any fabric. Make your own tummy-tuck jeans or yoked yoga pants. Never worry again about fit when making a new pair of trousers, jeans or casual pants. Kathy's ready-to-wear secrets will save you time and give you great results. You'll love this no-nonsense approach to real women's bodies and clothing needs."

The bottom line - This class was well worth the money ! I can't give away all her secrets because this is how she makes her living but I can share a few realizations I had while working through her lessons. Her methods are uncomplicated and easy to use.
I also took Jennifer Sterns pant fit class and for me it was a bit of a bomb. First of all she used a pant form - who do you know with one??? I will just say it was a waste of my time and money.
This was one of my first pairs ( the 3rd) and they are not bad. They kinda go up my whoha a bit but they stretch out when I wear them for a hour and and then they are fine. Lol!
Before I get to far into this post I will mention I'm not a stretchy pant person. It's not the best fabric on this aging imperfect body. Don't get me wrong, I'm ok where I am. But I can't pretend I'm 20 anymore!
So I learned how to add more "sitting" room. I don't love where they end on my calves so that got changed in consecutive editions. Unless you are using the EXACT fabric for every pair they will all fit differently. You need to learn to adjust for the differences. It gets easier to identify issues for each unique fabric as you go along.
This fabric has little stretch but was a descent weight. I have been using my own version of a built in tummy suppressor and have now added Kathy's tricks to my repertoire. It's very helpful for adding more structure to the front so you form to the shape of the pant and not the other way round! These had great top stitching but it gets lost in the print unless you are close up.
This pair had greater stretch then the previous. I tweaked the sitting room, added an inch to the waist height,and made them full length boot cut. I will get lots of wear out of them in the fall.
These too have a tummy supressor. Or call it a control top.
I like where they sit on my waist, but I really miss not having real front pockets! I didn't notice until I took this picture that my back pocket stitching is un even. Oops!
These are my favorites. This fabric is more of a dress twill with a bit of stretch but I made it work. Added the tummy support. Widened the waist band. I know now , I have a high waistline.
I made REAL working slash pockets and a 'real fake' fly front. There is still no zipper but it looks real. More then the original patterns, top stitched fly. I gave this pair a cute little hippie flair to the bottom.
Women have stopped me on the street asking me where I got these from! Tee he he! You will learn how to modify with Kathy.
This floral pair have next to little stretch or little recovery. But it's a really nice thick weight. I have to do a few deep knee bends when I take them out of the dryer! After that they wear great. Remember this is a stretch pattern this type of fabric may not work for some.
These have the tummy support. Real pockets. Real fake fly. Skinny capris length. I have big calves so this becomes an area I need to be careful with when switching up designs.
I like the waist band width tweaked wider=higher.
Lots of top stitching.
This pair was one of the first. My least liked.
They need a bit more sitting room but are ok with a long tunic.
They get hung up on my calves. And they make my bum look really flat.
Last but not least I made shorts. The fabric for these was the best ever. Beefy with stretch. It came from the hidden recesses of the never ending stash, maybe 12 yrs old. Like a good scotch!
I don't remember what width elastic the pattern uses but I know I used at least double. I like the way it feels and fits better. When you do the class you realize you are the designer you make what is right for you. Any one can sew a pattern but they have to work for you when you're done.
These khaki greens could have used a press before their photo debut but you get the idea.
Congrats if you made it this far!!! Long post. Reward yourself with the Jalie pants pattern- Éléonore, and a Craftsy class - One Pattern Many Looks- Pants with Kathy Ruddy. If you have not already done so!
I hope you can see what I learned. This class has given me an opportunity to grow my skills, with little frustration. It's was fun with Kathy. Her knowledge is practical , her approach is simple, and she has a delightful sense of humor.
The Éléonore is a great pattern all by itself, but it was great to use as my demo/sloper block because I didn't have to do a zipper application or complicated waistband, buttonholes etc. to learn about fitting and styling a pair of pants. Every time, I made something I would wear, and not wad!
Thanks for stopping by.


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