Thursday 30 June 2016

MAGAM June 2016

The Make a garment a month theme for June was 'Joyful June'
Joyful June for me was all about getting into my sewing room and playing. Playing gives me great joy and takes my stress away! It also turned out to be a very productive sewing month. This is a long post , I wanted to get it all in, otherwise time goes by and I never get my work up.
I really wasn't sure where I was going with this theme at first. I had a lot of things piled up on my sewing table. I just let my mood take me away.
This was the first thing I made. I call this my Barcelona tank top. It's a self drafted pattern that I have made up 3 times in a lovely fabric called Barcelona. This was my recycling project as well. I started with a garment that I got at the thrift shop, it didn't fit me but I loved the fabric. So I cut it up - what else!?
Here's how I did it. I cut out the circles from the print, leaving a border of white.
Made a sample. Water soluble stabilizer on the back. Then free motion stitching. I used gold metallic thread which I did not like so I changed to silver. I liked how it turned out, so I kept going.

I pinned it all down and went to town.

I have a new Bernina with the stitch regulator that I wanted to play with.

This was fun= joyful.

When I was done I cut away the extra stabilizer and rinsed it out.

I let it dry over night and pressed it out in the morning.
It looked quite puckered. I was a bit nervous. But I was fairly sure from my sample it would work out.

Steam and the wooden clapper. It came up beautiful.

My dear husband always gives my outfits names. This he calls 'Casino Wear'! I love it!!!
I have to admit he kinda nailed it. It's got that lounge look to it.
I had some circles left over so I made the pants too. I used Vogue 8641. These were so easy. They stitched up in an hour.
I liked the pants so much I made them again in a navy pin stripe. I haven't hemmed them yet because I'm not sure which shoes to wear them with. I will be doing a separate blog post on the pants.
Barcelona tank , again.

Teal or turquoise?

I made the tank to wear alone or under this Burda Style Magazine pattern.

Chiffon tunic from the Grunge Collection. 03/2014#126.

I added sleeve tabs. My new machine makes perfect button holes!!!! That brings me joy!!

Barcelona tank top X's 2. One in lace over a lace trimmed one. The little over jacket I'm wearing, is an orphan I made about 3 years ago, also self drafted, never blogged about it.

The very loose weave of the fabric easily allowed me to add a hand crocheted scalloped edge all the way around it.

Now I have something to wear it with.

I also made another altered Vogue 8950. I blogged about it first here.

Yes - I made More stuff this month!

My brother got a Voo Doo doll for his birthday. Made from an old T-shirt. We decided instead to call it an acupuncture doll. This was fun. What do you give a guy who has everything?

The Jalie Maxi pattern has been on my list since it came out and I finally got around to making it. I should have done it a lot sooner. It's amazing. Great fit. (Not skin tight) super easy and fast!

From my new Turkish sewing magazines, I made a jumpsuit that I just love. I blogged about it here.

I also made a white blouse from one of the Magazines. It's been a very long time since I've made a placket with buttonholes. It turned out just okay. I had problems with some of the stitching order due to no instructions. But now that I have it figured out I might make it again. I also dislike the fabric. It's a linen /cotton blend. Next time I'll stick to one or the other. Somehow it combines the worst properties of both fabrics. However it still has a nice feel. This fabric was not inexpensive, I noticed after I pre washed it,it had a few holes in it. I thought I was being careful but somehow I managed to place a hole right by the middle button. Not sure how I'm going to fix it.

Creazion Elisi #3 pattern model #102.

We are almost at the end of this post. Yeah!

The last project is McCalls 7389 view B.

This was super quick and easy to make. And a great little stash buster. If you don't have a lot of fashion fabric, it has a lining.
I have been looking for little summer top patterns using wovens.This is nothing more then a glorified tank top but what's great about it is it's not gigantic. I made a size 10 and took it in a1/2 inch on either side at the under arm , tapering down 2". Everything else fit beautifully.
I cut the eyelet from yardage which was less expensive then buying eyelet trim. I have another project in mind for the rest of it.

I only have one picture that turned out of me wearing it. I think it's really cute. If you don't like showing your under arms then this is not the top for you. It exposes what I like to call my 'chicken fat'. But when I'm hot I really don't care!

Here it is with using lace. I laid the lace over it after I attached the yoke and wrapped it around the edges, then stitched it through all the layers. This worked out well until I went to press it and melted the lace with a hot iron!!! But lace is forgiving and I managed to cut out the crusty mess and invisibly patch it. I can't see where I fixed it unless I look at the back and see my hand stitches.
Of course I'm wearing the wrong bra with this but you get the idea. This will be nice to wear with jeans or the wide leg pin stripe pants that still need to be hemmed.

Now I'm done. I'd be surprised if you have read this far! I am so tired of taking pictures of myself. I'm starting to feel like I have a narcissistic disorder!! I can assure you I don't.

That's it for June. Now I have to clean up my sewing room. It looks like a bomb went off in there.

Thanks for stopping by.



Friday 24 June 2016

Straight from Turkey! A Jumpsuit

Sewing magazines from Turkey! Magazine Creazion Elisi issue # 9.
Of all the things I've made in the last few years - This is my favorite!!!! I love this Jumpsuit!
Late one night, last year, I somehow came across these sewing magazines on line. I just had to have them. Pay Pal is a wonderful and dangerous thing! I was a little nervous,the website was not in English, but looked official. I'm such a gambler. It was a risk worth taking. They arrived promptly, in good order, and they are awesome!

Sizing is similar to Burda but not exactly the same. All measurements are metric, as a Canadian I'm good with this. I had to take it in at the back zip,by a few( 3-4) inches, and shorten the bodice by 2 1/2 inches.

This is the one I made! We look like twins! Just kidding, I'm a bit shorter.
This went together beautifully. I could have made the next size down ,I think I will do that next time.
These are a similar format to Burda, only the quality is way nicer. Fewer patterns. Not every pattern is the size you might want. Children's and babies included. ZERO English. No pattern lay out. Burda was like this in the old days too but I still managed to sew! I can't understand a word of Turkish but I'm still really enjoying the challenge. I did email the distributor and was told they don't include seam allowance.
I used a light weight cotton denim. I have no recollection of buying this. I swear I've never even seen it before. But like magic it appeared when I needed it. It's a good weight for this garment and I like the colour. The fabric had many defects, fortunately there was enough to work around them.

I used the Cover Pro to top stitch all the seams. I think it added a really nice touch.
Okay, I know this is the worst possible picture of the back end ever, but it's all I got! This was to be a muslin that happened to turn out better then expected. The bottom fit will be worked out in the next iteration- it's quite baggy and saggy, yet I don't think its supposed to fit tight due to the width if the legs. The zipper is an ancient metal one that appeared again like magic?!?! The perfect color and length. Zippers are my evil nemesis- I did an exposed version. Could do better.
I'm very happy with these magazines, and this pattern in particular. I have made a few other things which I may post about one day. I hope some of you other adventurous seamstresses out there will check into this magazine and post some of your results too. (In English please , so I can read it;)
I believe so far there are 9 issues. I bought them all, but I think one was unavailable or out of print. Don't ask me how much they cost, I don't remember and I'm not looking it up.
Will these replace my beloved Burda Style? No, they will have to live side by side. So much for downsizing!!!

Thanks for stopping by!



Thursday 16 June 2016

Éléonore pant by Jalie and One pattern many looks PANTS. With Kathy Ruddy.

I'm sure all of you home seamstresses out there know this Jalie pattern was voted the best of 2015 on Pattern review. With good reason!!! They are pull on - no zipper application, with jeans styling.Quick and easy,and super comfy. However, ( there's always a however!) With any garment you have to have a great fit, after making my first two pairs I had just an ok fit. I knew I wanted to get better at customizing them to my fit and style, and for the last few years I have been diligently working to improve my bottoms and make better pants. I can now make very nice pants BUT I still needed better fit techniques. Enter Craftsy class, One pattern many looks PANTS. With Kathy Ruddy.
"Create a versatile block pattern to ensure perfect-fitting pants across an array of style choices. Kathy Ruddy shows you how!

Three styles of waist finish ... three kinds of pockets ... three different leg styles. Kathy Ruddy gives you all these options and more, using a single pants pattern that you'll adjust to fit in any fabric. Make your own tummy-tuck jeans or yoked yoga pants. Never worry again about fit when making a new pair of trousers, jeans or casual pants. Kathy's ready-to-wear secrets will save you time and give you great results. You'll love this no-nonsense approach to real women's bodies and clothing needs."

The bottom line - This class was well worth the money ! I can't give away all her secrets because this is how she makes her living but I can share a few realizations I had while working through her lessons. Her methods are uncomplicated and easy to use.
I also took Jennifer Sterns pant fit class and for me it was a bit of a bomb. First of all she used a pant form - who do you know with one??? I will just say it was a waste of my time and money.
This was one of my first pairs ( the 3rd) and they are not bad. They kinda go up my whoha a bit but they stretch out when I wear them for a hour and and then they are fine. Lol!
Before I get to far into this post I will mention I'm not a stretchy pant person. It's not the best fabric on this aging imperfect body. Don't get me wrong, I'm ok where I am. But I can't pretend I'm 20 anymore!
So I learned how to add more "sitting" room. I don't love where they end on my calves so that got changed in consecutive editions. Unless you are using the EXACT fabric for every pair they will all fit differently. You need to learn to adjust for the differences. It gets easier to identify issues for each unique fabric as you go along.
This fabric has little stretch but was a descent weight. I have been using my own version of a built in tummy suppressor and have now added Kathy's tricks to my repertoire. It's very helpful for adding more structure to the front so you form to the shape of the pant and not the other way round! These had great top stitching but it gets lost in the print unless you are close up.
This pair had greater stretch then the previous. I tweaked the sitting room, added an inch to the waist height,and made them full length boot cut. I will get lots of wear out of them in the fall.
These too have a tummy supressor. Or call it a control top.
I like where they sit on my waist, but I really miss not having real front pockets! I didn't notice until I took this picture that my back pocket stitching is un even. Oops!
These are my favorites. This fabric is more of a dress twill with a bit of stretch but I made it work. Added the tummy support. Widened the waist band. I know now , I have a high waistline.
I made REAL working slash pockets and a 'real fake' fly front. There is still no zipper but it looks real. More then the original patterns, top stitched fly. I gave this pair a cute little hippie flair to the bottom.
Women have stopped me on the street asking me where I got these from! Tee he he! You will learn how to modify with Kathy.
This floral pair have next to little stretch or little recovery. But it's a really nice thick weight. I have to do a few deep knee bends when I take them out of the dryer! After that they wear great. Remember this is a stretch pattern this type of fabric may not work for some.
These have the tummy support. Real pockets. Real fake fly. Skinny capris length. I have big calves so this becomes an area I need to be careful with when switching up designs.
I like the waist band width tweaked wider=higher.
Lots of top stitching.
This pair was one of the first. My least liked.
They need a bit more sitting room but are ok with a long tunic.
They get hung up on my calves. And they make my bum look really flat.
Last but not least I made shorts. The fabric for these was the best ever. Beefy with stretch. It came from the hidden recesses of the never ending stash, maybe 12 yrs old. Like a good scotch!
I don't remember what width elastic the pattern uses but I know I used at least double. I like the way it feels and fits better. When you do the class you realize you are the designer you make what is right for you. Any one can sew a pattern but they have to work for you when you're done.
These khaki greens could have used a press before their photo debut but you get the idea.
Congrats if you made it this far!!! Long post. Reward yourself with the Jalie pants pattern- Éléonore, and a Craftsy class - One Pattern Many Looks- Pants with Kathy Ruddy. If you have not already done so!
I hope you can see what I learned. This class has given me an opportunity to grow my skills, with little frustration. It's was fun with Kathy. Her knowledge is practical , her approach is simple, and she has a delightful sense of humor.
The Éléonore is a great pattern all by itself, but it was great to use as my demo/sloper block because I didn't have to do a zipper application or complicated waistband, buttonholes etc. to learn about fitting and styling a pair of pants. Every time, I made something I would wear, and not wad!
Thanks for stopping by.