Friday, 16 January 2015

Burdastyle cocoon sweater

This is Burdastyle's cocoon sweater #107/11/2013
I chose to make it with a mystery fabric from my "private collection". It's a short shaggy fun fur on the right side and a fleece on the wrong side. Being short on yardage I thought I would make the outer binding with some of the leftover embossed pleather I had from another project.
The cover.
This pattern originally had inseam pockets. I opted out of them because they were going to flop around on the inside. Then I happened to come across an alternative pocket idea on Gayle Ortiz blog - Gayle does amazing work that I am always inspired by. I have never made this style of pocket so I will have to make it up as I go.
This was my process. Using my French curve I drafted my pocket shape.

 

I carefully fused some stabilizer around the edges so it would keep its shape. None of these fabrics like heat! Just missed a melting disaster!

 

I then used a 1 1/2 inch binding, stitched,and trimmed seam.

 

I folded my binding over, but didn't turn it under so it wouldn't create extra bulk.

From the right side, using my in the ditch foot, stitched it down. I avoided sewing on top of the pleather.
Using my pocket shape as a guide I cut the pocket and finished the edges on the serger.
After pinning everything in place - I stitched around the shape of the pocket from the back. Now when I flip it over....
Poof! A pocket appears! That was fun and easy and no floppy inseam pocket jobby.I'm just going to mention here, that some of theses new fake leathers do not show pin marks. I'm pinner ,so that makes me happy.
Now it will tie in nicely with the rest of my pleather binding. This shaggy fabric is very forgiving other wise I would have top stitched from the front. I don't know if these pockets have a name. If anyone knows please leave me a comment and fill me in.
 
I did make a few customizations to this pattern. I shortened the length by 2" before cutting it out.
Also, after attaching the binding,the cocoon tail had a funny little sticky out-y fling to it , I took it apart 3!!! Times - it would just not conform to my wishes-so I just wacked it off. As a hairdresser for 30+ yrs - I am fearless with scissors;) besides it was still way long on me as I am only 5'3" . I then added a box pleat at the bottom to give it a nice inward curve. I like it. I also think that sitting on the pleather would have wrinkled it in an unhealthy way. I hand stitched the hem- I'm kinda old fashioned.
Inside view.
Ta da!
It's so warm and cozy!!!
All the women at work want it. I think it could really be dressed up as well. I have some faux grey lambs wool begging to become a cocoon too.
The next one will be another inch or two shorter. My legs are longer in real life!Thanks for stopping by.

 

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